Dum aloo

Bring a pot of water to a boil, add 1 teaspoon of salt and the baby potatoes, and boil 10 to 12 minutes.

Insert a knife to check: the potatoes should be a little soft but not too soft, as they cook again in the gravy. Drain and peel.

Heat the oil in a pan until it smokes, then lower the heat to minimum before adding the whole spices or they will burn.

Add the nigella seeds; when they crackle add asafoetida, turmeric and paprika, then immediately a splash of water so the dry spices do not burn, and stir one to two seconds.

Add the grated ginger and stir well, then the green chili.

Add the peeled potatoes, raise to medium and stir 2 to 3 minutes until coated with the spices and fried, then add 1 teaspoon of salt.

Add the tomato puree, then a splash of water, and stir about a minute.

Add about a cup of water and the sugar.

Bring the gravy to a boil, cover and cook about eight minutes.

In a second pan on very low heat, roast coriander seeds, cumin seeds, green cardamom, cinnamon, cloves and half a dry red chili until just a shade brown, then transfer them off the pan immediately or they will taste bitter.

Grind the roasted spices in a spice or coffee grinder.

Uncover, taste, correct the salt, stir in two teaspoons of the spice blend, cover again and cook two minutes.

Stir in chopped coriander leaves and sprinkle a little of the dry spice blend over the top. Serve with puri, chapati or rice.