Egg fried rice

The rice must be dry: spread freshly cooked rice in a single layer on a sheet tray and steam dry at least 15 to 20 minutes, or better, spread day-old rice on a sheet tray uncovered in the fridge overnight. Break up clumps with the fingers before starting.

Outdoor wok burner: preheat the wok over high heat until it smokes, add a couple tablespoons of oil and shut off the heat.

Add the beaten eggs and swirl; when set on the first side and just starting to brown, flip and keep swirling. When mostly set, push them up the side.

Add a little more oil and the rice, flip the egg on top of the rice, bring the heat back up and break up the egg and rice with the back of the spoon.

Shut off the heat, add a splash of oil around the side and squirt about a tablespoon of soy sauce where the oil went, so it sizzles and reduces rather than going straight into the rice.

Over the lowest heat add the scallions and toss to combine. About two and a half minutes in all.

variation: indoor gas burner -- a flat bottom carbon steel wok over the hottest burner, preheated until lightly smoking. Leave the heat on high the whole time, since the burner cannot recover heat once the rice goes in. Same egg and rice method; done when the rice starts to jump, a sign enough moisture has been driven off. A butane torch pointed into the wok while stir frying adds some smokiness. About a minute and a half longer.

variation: electric or induction -- a flat bottom nonstick or carbon steel pan, not a wok, since the flames cannot climb a wok's sides. Do not preheat nonstick to smoking.

variation: heat the oil to 375 to 400 degrees, no hotter, until it shimmers. Same egg and rice method with a wood or nylon utensil, more breaking up and more time, heat on highest throughout; virtually no wok hei.

Rice: unrinsed short grain sushi rice cooked in a pressure cooker or rice cooker at 1.1 parts water to 1 part rice; follow the bag for other rices.