Eggless semolina pasta dough shaped nine ways

Mix semolina flour with warm water by hand or with a wooden spoon, adding a splash more water to hydrate, and bring the dough together.

Turn out and knead on the counter into a smooth ball.

Wrap tightly in cling wrap and chill about 30 minutes to relax.

Orecchiette: roll a rope about 1 cm thick on an unfloured surface, cut 1 cm pieces, and with floured fingers press each near the middle, roll it over and open it into a little ear.

Malloreddus: cut 1.5 cm pieces from a 1 cm rope and roll each with a floured finger down a gnocchi board; toss in semolina and leave on a tray to dry.

Cavatelli: cut 1.5 cm pieces and roll each over the finger on the countertop to hollow it; toss in semolina.

Trofie: roll a rope about a quarter inch thick, cut inch-long pieces and roll each up and down under the fingers and knuckles with pressure into a twisted irregular shape; toss in semolina and dry completely before cooking.

Busiate: cut 3-inch pieces from a quarter-inch rope, twist and pull each around a wooden skewer, roll on the counter to flatten the sides and slide off.

Olive leaf: cut 1.5-inch pieces from a quarter-inch rope, taper the ends, then press a knife blade near the edge with firm pressure and drag the piece over, opening it into a leaf.

Rigatoni: cut 2-inch squares of egg pasta, roll each around a dowel pressing into the gnocchi board with the lines running along the pasta, and seal on the seam; dust with semolina and stand up to dry.

Penne: set the square as a diamond on the board and roll it around the dowel the same way.

Farfalle: cut 1.5-inch squares from egg pasta rolled to setting six with a ravioli roller for crimped edges, fold in the middle, bring the edges down and pinch the centre.

Dry the pasta a few hours at room temperature; dry completely to store, or refrigerate up to three days, or freeze.

Cook in a boiling pot of salted water, 6 to 15 minutes depending on dryness, until it floats; do not undercook.