Eggs Benedict with hollandaise, ham and smoked salmon

Bring a decent depth of water in a saucepan to just under a simmer and add about a tablespoon of vinegar to help set the whites.

Crack each egg into a strainer so the watery part of the white drains away.

Swirl the water into a vortex with a whisk and drop the egg into the centre; one egg at a time.

Once the white turns opaque, nudge it over the yolk, skim off stray bits of white and lift the egg off the bottom; cook 2 to 3 minutes until the yolk is thick but still runny.

Transfer to a bowl of cool water. Repeat for four eggs. Trim any spidery whites with scissors. Held in water up to a day; refrigerate in cold or ice water if more than an hour ahead.

Melt the butter very slowly over low heat without stirring so the water and milk solids separate; pour off the clear yellow butterfat.

Over low heat whisk the three yolks with a tablespoon of water into a frothy sabayon until opaque, lighter and thick.

Over low heat, whisk in the clarified butter in a slow trickle so the emulsion holds; do not let it get too hot. Thin with a little water if needed.

Season with about a tablespoon of lemon juice, salt, pepper and a dash of cayenne.

Cover with plastic directly on the surface and hold the pan in warm water over the lowest heat.

Split the English muffins with fork tines and dry toast in a toaster oven.

Warm the poached eggs briefly in the warm water and dry them well.

Taste the hollandaise; add a little salt and a drop of water.

Plate asparagus, muffins topped with ham or smoked salmon, the eggs, a coating of hollandaise over the eggs and asparagus, chives, pepper and salt.