Enchiladas suizas

Slice the onion into half-inch slabs. Lay the tomatoes, serranos and onion flat on a tray, no oil, and roast under a hot broiler with the rack at the very top. Plum tomatoes and tomatillos take about 6 minutes per side; large tomatoes about twice as long, so pull pieces as they are done.

Cool, then pull off the tomato skins roughly; no need to core.

Put everything in the blender with the residual juices and blend to a coarse puree, not completely smooth.

Heat a pan over medium-high, add just enough olive oil to coat the bottom; when it sizzles, add all the puree at once.

Cook quickly, stirring all the time, raising the heat to high, until reduced, darker and about as thick as tomato paste; skipping this halves the flavor.

Stir in the broth and the cream and simmer while the rest is prepared, until a little thicker.

Brush the tortillas lightly with vegetable oil, the first on both sides and the rest on one side, stacking them. Put in a heavy plastic bag, unsealed, microwave on high 1 minute, then let sit 1 minute.

Variation: fill with roasted vegetables (butternut, carrots, red onion, zucchini, mushrooms) roasted 15 to 20 minutes until brown and soft, with Tuscan kale mixed in for about five more minutes.

Season the sauce well with salt, tasting; tortillas have no salt, so an under-seasoned sauce affects the whole dish.

Moisten the chicken with a little of the sauce, mixing with tongs.

Fill and roll the tortillas and lay them in individual ovenproof dishes, leaving a little space between them for the sauce.

Ladle sauce over to cover every part of the tortillas, including the ends, which otherwise go hard; one set with the creamy tomato sauce and one with the creamy tomatillo sauce.

Top with cheese and bake about five minutes.

Garnish with thin onion rings and a few sprigs of cilantro.