Enriched potato burger buns

Into the stand mixer bowl measure 200 g warm water, 70 g sugar, one large egg, 75 g melted but not hot butter and 8 g instant yeast.

Add 15 g dough conditioner, then the 150 g riced potato, 625 g strong all-purpose flour and 12 g salt.

Peel one large russet potato, double wrap in foil and roast at 425F for one hour until completely tender; undercooked potato makes the dough gummy.

Pass the potato through a ricer until smooth and measure out 150 g.

Mix on medium speed with the dough hook 8 to 10 minutes. It goes slack and sticky around four to five minutes; push through until it is a clean cohesive mass clearing the bowl.

Check with the tug test: forceful tugging should give no shearing or tearing.

Flip into a medium bowl and round into a tight ball with a wet hand; lid on.

Ferment on the counter 30 minutes.

Aggressively degas, flatten, then fold: pull out each of four sides to resistance and fold back over, flip onto the seams and round tight again. Lid on.

Flip out onto a cutting board, punch down to degas, and cut into 12 pieces of 100 g.

Line a sheet tray with parchment and spray it.

Degas each piece again — large bubbles cause voids and collapse — pull out both sides, fold them over each other, flip onto the seam and roll tight against the board, tucking the tension into a seam underneath.

Spritz with water, cover with a damp towel and proof 60 to 90 minutes at 76 to 80F; his took about 75 minutes and grew about three times. It is ready when a gentle poke springs back slowly.

Brush with an egg wash of one egg and a generous splash of water, stirred to combine; an immersion blender breaks the whites down further and prevents egg buildup at the base.

Bake at 400F (205C) for 15 to 18 minutes, squirting water into the oven at the start for steam, rotating the tray after about seven minutes.

Brush lightly with melted butter while warm.