Escuinapa-style crispy fried shrimp tacos with shrimp-tomato broth and pickled vegetables

Blanch the filling garlic quickly in the microwave under a little water, or roast it in its husk in a dry skillet 10 to 15 minutes until soft, turning now and then; chop finely.

Mix the chopped shrimp with the garlic, a couple of tablespoons of tomato paste, salt and pepper until evenly coated; refrigerate if working ahead.

Put the undrained can of fire-roasted tomatoes in a four-quart saucepan with a couple of cups of water and four whole garlic cloves.

Pick the stems from half a tablespoon of Mexican oregano, crush it between the palms over the pan, and add a first seasoning of salt.

Bring quickly to a boil, reduce to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, 10 minutes.

Add pepper and the shrimp shells and tails, submerge them, partially cover and simmer 10 minutes, not 20, since the shrimp flavor dissipates after about 10.

Blend everything until completely smooth, with the lid's center cap removed and a towel over the top so the hot mixture does not blow the lid off.

Strain back into the cleaned pot, pressing with a spoon until a dry mass is left; keep over very low heat and season by taste before serving.

Bring half a cup each of apple cider vinegar and water to a good boil in a small saucepan with two teaspoons of Diamond Crystal salt and half a tablespoon of crushed Mexican oregano.

In a bowl, combine half a medium red onion, a medium carrot grated on a box grater, and a couple of cups of napa cabbage sliced as thin as possible.

Pour the boiling vinegar mixture over the vegetables and turn them for about a minute so they wilt slightly but stay crunchy.

Dip the tortillas, three at a time, into 350 degree oil for a few seconds until bubbling, to make them flexible; lay on paper towels and pat off excess oil.

Put a modest portion of filling in the center of each tortilla, fold it over, press flat and sew the top shut with a toothpick or small skewer.

Heat the oil to about 360 or 370 degrees and fry the tacos about three at a time, moving them around, a couple of minutes until crisp; drain on paper towels. They hold uncovered in a low oven 20 to 30 minutes.

Pull out the skewers and line the tacos up in a low bowl.

At the last minute ladle the shrimp-tomato broth over, top with the pickled vegetables and finish with a little chopped cilantro.