Esquites (brothy)

Cut the kernels off the cobs: cut one side off, flip the cob onto that flat side, and cut off the other three sides; optionally scrape the cobs with the back of a spoon.

Cut the cobs to fit the pan, submerge them in water covered by almost two inches, partially cover and bring to a full boil, then drop to medium to medium-low.

Simmer about an hour to draw the corn flavour out of the cobs.

Lift the cobs into a strainer and strain the broth; discard the cobs.

Put the kernels in a pot and add corn cob broth to cover by about an inch.

Add a handful of fresh epazote, cover, bring back to a boil and keep at a bare simmer about 20 minutes (about double that with Mexican field corn).

Season with about two teaspoons of salt, stir and taste.

Serve in a cup or mug with enough broth to cover; add lime juice, a spoonful of lime-flavored mayonnaise, queso fresco and crushed chile de arbol.

Stir well so the mayonnaise makes the broth creamy; taste and add more chili or lime.