Eton mess with homemade meringue kisses

Put four egg whites in the mixer with a quarter teaspoon of cream of tartar and a pinch of salt; start mixing on low.

Once frothy, add one cup of superfine sugar gradually, never dumped in, and whip to stiff marshmallow-like peaks, adding a little vanilla near the end.

Preheat the oven to 200 degrees.

Fill a piping bag fitted with an 869 star tip, dab meringue under the paper on the baking sheet to hold it, and pipe kisses: hold just above the paper, squeeze, stop, lift.

Bake on the center rack at 200 degrees for one hour, then turn off the oven and leave the door closed one to two more hours to dry completely.

Soak the strawberries briefly to wash, drain and hull them.

Smash one third of the strawberries in a bowl to release juice; quarter the rest and add them.

Add one cup of superfine sugar and let sit about 10 minutes to draw out the juice.

Variation: divide the berries in two; to one half add a little orange zest and a splash of orange liqueur (later a splash of elderflower liqueur) and let sit 10 minutes.

Whip two cups of cold heavy cream in a chilled large bowl with two teaspoons superfine sugar to soft peaks, finishing by hand with a whisk; watch closely, it over-whips quickly.

Set aside a few pretty meringue tips; crush half the meringues to small pieces between two bowls and break the rest into larger pieces.

Layer whipped cream, strawberries and meringue in cups or coupe glasses, repeating; top with the reserved meringue pieces and drizzle with strawberry juice. Can be assembled up to three hours ahead, but best served immediately.