Everyday French loaf (poolish bread)

Make the poolish: cool water, a tiny amount of instant yeast, then flour, equal parts flour and water by weight. Stir to combine and scrape down the sides.

Cover and leave at room temperature, 68 to 72 degrees, for 12 to 16 hours, until the surface is covered in pinprick holes and it smells of fermentation.

Pour the final mix water into the poolish and agitate by hand; add yeast, salt and all-purpose flour and mix until no dry spots remain, scraping down the bowl. Do not knead.

Cover and rest 20 minutes.

First fold: a one-handed bowl fold, stretching from the outside up and pressing to the centre, 8 to 12 times until the dough feels tensioned. Cover and rest 20 minutes.

Second fold: the same bowl fold, 6 to 8 times. Cover and rest 20 minutes.

Third fold: a coil fold with wet hands, lifting from underneath and coiling the dough over itself.

Flour the top, turn the dough out gently and divide in half, about 650 grams each.

Round preshape on a lightly floured surface, stretching up and pressing to the centre to seal; rest 15 to 20 minutes, covered, on a floured spot.

Shape batards: seam side up, pat out big bubbles, fold each side to the middle, roll down from the top sealing with the heel of the hand, taper the ends. Set seam side up on floured linen with a pleat between loaves.

Cover and proof 45 to 60 minutes, while the oven preheats; load while the dough still has a little bounce when pressed.

Turn the loaves seam side down onto parchment on a transfer peel.

Score each loaf with three cuts, quickly and confidently.

Bake on the hot stone with steam; cool before slicing.