Fast upside-down turkey

Remove the neck and innards; salt the turkey very generously inside and out with three to four tablespoons of kosher salt.

Dry brine uncovered in the fridge 12 to 24 hours, never less than 12.

Halve a loaf of French or Italian bread lengthwise, butter generously, and set butter side up in a large foil roasting pan on a sheet pan.

Put sage, rosemary and thyme in the cavity, tie the legs with kitchen string, and set the turkey backbone side up on the bread, balanced so no breast touches the pan; tuck the wingtips.

Roast at 450 degrees about two hours, until the thickest part of the thigh reads 165.

Rest at least 15 or 20 minutes.

Optionally flip it, brush with turkey fat and broil about five minutes to brown the breast skin.

Cube the browned bread from under the bird and serve as a dressing, soaked with pan juices; garnish with persimmons and carve.