Feta stuffed flatbread with za'atar oil

Peel the potato to about eight ounces, put it in a small sauce pan with just enough unsalted water to cover, and cook over medium-high heat less than 10 minutes until completely tender.

Combine the flour with two teaspoons of diamond kosher salt.

Drain the potato and save the starchy cooking water, about a cup.

Measure a quarter cup of the potato water, no hotter than 115, and stir the active dry yeast into it to dissolve; it should bubble after a few minutes.

Add the olive oil to the remainder of the potato liquid; mash the potato with a fork and add it to the flour.

Add the bloomed yeast and the rest of the liquid, scraping in all the potato bits, and mix on low until smooth and very elastic; it is a soft, slightly sticky dough.

Scrape the dough out, oil the bowl, gather the dough into a circle, return it and cover.

Rise at room temperature until doubled, maybe one to two hours, call it an hour and a half; or refrigerate overnight.

Divide the dough into eight pieces, tucking the irregular edges underneath into a teardrop or garlic-bulb bundle, flipping so the rounded side is up and tucking under with a scraper into a high dome.

Transfer to a sheet tray and let them rise at room temperature.

Crumble eight ounces of feta from a drained block, one ounce or about three tablespoons per flatbread.

Combine four tablespoons of za'atar with four tablespoons of olive oil for the za'atar oil; enough for all eight.

Put a sheet tray with a wire rack in the oven on its lowest setting, 150, as a warming area.

Flour or oil the sticky dough and pat a piece down thin and even, sprinkle three tablespoons of crumbled feta across the surface and roll it up into a cigar.

Twist the cigar onto itself from one end into a spiral or snail shape and return it to the baking sheet in the fridge to relax; repeat for all eight.

Oil one side of two pieces of parchment, place the dough oiled side down between them and roll out to roundish and about eight inches across.

Peel off the parchment, lay the flatbread into the skillet and cook on the first side until charred and bubbling, about two minutes; the surface goes from shiny to matte when it is ready to flip.

Flip, brush on about a tablespoon of the za'atar oil mixture and cook the second side, which goes much faster.

The pieces that rested longer in the fridge hold their shape better and roll to a nicer even thickness.

Variation: grill them directly on a grill or in a pan on the grill; or skip the feta and make plain za'atar flatbreads.