Fettuccine Alfredo after Alfredo alla Scrofa, Rome

Mix the 00 flour and semolina on a work surface; make a well with the bottom of a bowl and crack in the eggs.

Whisk the eggs, then pull the flour in from the middle outward; once sticky, bring in the rest with a bench scraper, 5 to 10 minutes.

Knead 5 to 10 minutes until smooth, elastic and springing back when pressed.

Wrap and rest about an hour.

Cut into quarters and roll through the pasta machine at settings 0, 1 and 2, folding the sheet back on itself when it gets too long and restarting, for elasticity and chew.

Roll through to setting five or six and cut as fettuccine; repeat with the rest of the dough.

Hang the pasta to dry for a while.

Cut the Parmesan into chunks and blend until pulverized; pass through a fine mesh sieve so the sauce is smooth rather than grainy.

Cube the butter onto the serving dish.

Salt boiling water heavily and cook half the pasta about 45 seconds.

Drag the pasta straight from the pot onto the butter with some of its water; mix to melt the butter, adding a scoop or two of pasta water if dry.

Add all the cheese and toss with fork and spoon until it emulsifies into a smooth sauce coating the pasta.

variation: second batch with double the butter, same method; creamier, brighter, thicker and glossier, judged the better ratio.