Fish sticks

Firm the fish for cutting: thaw frozen fish one to two hours so it is still firm, or freeze fresh fish exactly one hour.

Chop the fish and move it to a large mixing bowl.

Add one egg, a quarter cup of panko, a tablespoon of mayonnaise, a tablespoon of Dijon, a quarter teaspoon of cayenne, two teaspoons of kosher salt and a teaspoon of onion powder.

Stir loosely by hand without crushing or squeezing the fish, or moisture comes out.

Portion at 43 grams a piece and shape roughly into thick fingers without crushing them.

Refrigerate at least half an hour.

Set up the line: flour, beaten eggs and panko in three loaf pans, the fish sticks on a rack, the oil, and a second rack set upside down over paper towel as a landing pad.

Bread wet hand, dry hand: roll in flour and tap off all but the barest coating, drain the egg well, then coat in panko. Too much flour or egg shears the breading off.

Let the breaded fingers sit a solid half hour so the breading sets, or they fall apart in the fryer.

Heat the quart of oil to 350F and lower in three to four fingers at a time, rolling them off the chopsticks.

Fry somewhere around two minutes until golden brown, keeping the oil at 350F; it drops as the moisture goes in.

Drain and transfer to the prepared rack, temping internally around 145F; wait a couple of minutes for the oil to rebound and repeat with the rest.