Fish tacos

For the marinade, combine 1 tsp ground cumin, 1/2 tsp chili powder, 1/4 tsp cayenne and 1/2 tsp salt; zest the lime, then juice it in, and whisk.

Marinate the cod, halved to fit, for just 15 minutes; longer and the acid changes the texture as in ceviche.

For the sauce, whisk 120 g sour cream, 60 g mayonnaise (optional), 2 tbsp lime juice and about 1/4 tsp garlic powder.

Add about 1 tsp Sriracha, a third to a half clove of garlic grated on a rasp and two pinches of lime zest; taste and refrigerate.

For the pico, chop about 1/2 cup diced red onion and several tomatoes; add a handful of cilantro, jalapeno, a sprinkle of cumin, grated garlic, lime juice and salt to taste, and toss.

Heat about 1 tbsp olive oil in a big pan over medium-high heat until it shimmers but does not smoke.

Shake excess marinade off the fish and cook about three minutes per side, until it flakes easily with a fork; a thin cut takes under two minutes per side. Cover to help a thick cut cook through, adding a minute if needed.

Chop the cabbage into bite-sized pieces.

Warm the corn tortillas directly over the flame, flipping by hand or with tongs.

Assemble: fish on a tortilla, cabbage, pico, more sauce, a few cilantro leaves and a spritz of lime juice.