Fondant potatoes

Cut both ends off each russet, stand it on its side and slice down the sides with a knife to peel it into an even cylinder; cut each cylinder in half.

Soak in a bowl of cold water about five minutes to remove surface starch, then pat completely dry on paper towel.

Heat a couple tablespoons of high smoke point oil in a heavy cast iron skillet over high heat until shimmering; add the potatoes best side down and lower to medium-high.

Cook about five or six minutes, plus a couple more if needed, until fairly well browned, not barely golden; season generously with salt and pepper.

Flip, blot out the oil with paper towel, and add a knob of butter and thyme sprigs; on medium-high, swirl and spoon or paint the thyme butter over the top until the butter foam turns from white to light tan. Season the second side.

As the foam starts to turn golden, add half a cup of chicken stock and place in a preheated 425F oven for about 30 minutes, until very tender and creamy inside with browned edges.

Transfer to a platter, spoon over some thyme butter and garnish with thyme flowers; let cool a little before eating.