Fougasse (leaf-shaped flatbread with rosemary and sea salt)

Combine all-purpose flour, a little whole-wheat flour, the yeast, salt and room-temperature water; knead with the dough hook 5 or 6 minutes to a very smooth, elastic, wet, sticky dough (75% hydration).

Transfer to a bowl greased with a couple teaspoons of olive oil and cover.

Let rise on the counter 2 hours; every 30 minutes or so, with wet hands, stretch the dough from the outside up over the top six or seven times and re-cover. Four sets of folds in total.

Wrap and refrigerate overnight, or up to a full day.

Turn the cold dough onto a lightly floured surface, pat into an oval to deflate it, and cut in half for two flatbreads.

Fold each piece into thirds into a rough triangle; set on a floured Silpat-lined sheet pan, cover with oiled plastic and rest about 45 minutes (30 minutes to an hour) to warm up.

On a lightly floured surface, roll and stretch into a larger triangle about a half to three-quarters inch thick; press on some chopped rosemary.

Transfer to a sheet pan lined with parchment and generously sprinkled with cornmeal; adjust the shape.

With a pizza wheel, cut down the centre, stopping at least an inch from the edge, and spread the cut open; make angled pairs of cuts down each side, never to the edge, spreading each open so they do not close up as the dough rises.

Cover with the oiled plastic and proof 30 minutes to an hour (about 45 here); longer gives an airier, puffier bread, shorter a flatter, crustier one.

Brush gently but thoroughly with olive oil, add more rosemary where needed, and sprinkle generously with very coarse sea salt.

Bake in the centre of a 450 degree oven about 20 minutes, until beautifully browned.

Cool on a rack, ideally to room temperature, before tearing.

Variation: roll the dough into a rectangle and make straight cuts for the ladder design.