Four cheese calzone

Combine the water, yeast, olive oil, sugar, bread flour and salt in the bowl of a stand mixer and mix on medium with the dough hook about two minutes to a shaggy ball.

Mix on high four minutes more, six to seven minutes of total mixing, until the dough clears the bowl.

Tug the dough three or four times; if it does not tear or shear it is done.

Divide into eight pieces of about 125 grams, folding each over itself and rounding it tight against the surface into a ball.

Move the balls to a lightly oiled half sheet tray and wrap the tray tightly in plastic.

Ferment overnight or a few days in the fridge, or two hours on the counter for less flavour.

Pull the dough an hour before baking and let it warm up covered on the counter.

Heat a medium sauce pan over medium heat with olive oil, add the grated onion and minced garlic and fry until the moisture is gone, softened and just starting to caramelize.

Combine the crushed tomatoes with the salt, sugar, dried basil, dried oregano and chili flakes, then blend smooth with an immersion blender.

Add the pureed tomatoes to the onions and garlic and bring to a simmer.

Turn the burner to low and reduce 15 to 20 minutes, until the sauce holds its shape when a spoon passes through it.

Preheat the oven to 550F with a pizza steel in it.

Flour the board, pat the dough ball flat to degas and roll out to about seven inches, turn 90 degrees and keep rolling, working the edges to the same thickness as the middle, to a roughly nine inch circle.

Lay down the ricotta, season it with flaky salt and black pepper, then a few thin slices of fresh mozzarella, a quarter cup of shredded aged mozzarella and grated Parmesan.

Dab water around the edge, fold the top over the filling into a half moon and seal, turning 90 degrees to tuck the filling into a uniform shape.

Fold the edge in towards the bottom, press to seal, then pleat by folding back every inch or so, pressing hard so the edges stay sealed.

Lay the calzone on a small sheet tray lined with parchment and a sprinkle of semolina.

Snip the top with scissors so steam can escape and brush all over with egg wash.

Bake at 550F for 10 minutes, until risen and golden brown.

Dip the calzone in the reduced marinara to serve.

Variation, sauce in: on the same nine inch round spread about three tablespoons of the thickened marinara, then chopped pepperoni, chopped pepperoncini, slices of fresh mozzarella, shredded aged mozzarella and Parmesan; fold, snip, egg wash and bake at 550F for 10 minutes.