French cheese puffs

Measure the whole milk, butter and salt into a high-sided saucepan.

Bring the milk and butter to a simmer over medium-low heat so the milk does not scorch.

Whisk in the all-purpose flour vigorously so it does not clump, since the starch gelatinizes almost instantly in hot liquid.

Switch to a rubber spatula or wooden spoon, drop the heat to low and cook, stirring frequently, another five to 10 minutes.

Move the cooked dough to a stand mixer bowl, add the Gruyere and mix on high 20 to 30 seconds until the cheese is worked in.

With the mixer on high, add the eggs one at a time, drizzling in the next as soon as the last is incorporated.

Scrape down and mix only another 15 to 20 seconds; less mixing is better for cheese puffs.

Load the dough into a freezer bag folded over a container, push out the air, seal, work the dough into one corner and cut one to one and a half inches off the corner.

Pipe about three tablespoons, the size of a small lime, onto a half sheet tray lined with parchment paper, cutting the dough free with a knife; space out 12.

Bake at 400F for 20 to 22 minutes; the eggs do the puffing, mostly in the last 30% of the bake.

After 20 minutes turn the oven off, open the door and leave them inside five more minutes to set, so they do not collapse in a sudden temperature shift.