French-method macaron shells

Pulse the almond meal and powdered sugar a few times and pass through a fine mesh sieve.

Optionally dry the almond meal in a 200F (95C) oven for 30 minutes to reduce the risk of cracks.

Add one third of the sugar to the room-temperature egg whites and beat on medium speed for 10 minutes.

Increase to high and add the remaining sugar; stiff peaks form in under 30 seconds. Do not over-beat: the meringue should not separate into chunks or look dry.

Add food coloring if desired; fold in the almond and sugar mixture until just combined.

Transfer the batter to a bowl and work it (macaronage) with a spatula or plastic scraper until smooth, shiny and forming a ribbon.

Pipe 30 shells per tray, removing air pockets; bake one tray at a time.

Rest the piped shells at least 20 minutes to form a slight air-dried crust.

Bake, ideally in a convection oven.