French omelette

Put two large eggs (for an 8-inch pan; three for a 10-inch) in a bowl with a little salt and optional chives.

Cut a little butter into small cubes and add to the eggs for richness and tenderness; the fat helps keep them moist if slightly overcooked.

Heat a nonstick skillet over moderately high heat with butter so it sizzles as soon as it goes in; do not let it melt fully or brown. Have a plate ready.

Add the eggs and keep them in constant motion, shaking the pan and stirring with three chopsticks so they break into small curds, until just soft.

Tilt the pan, bang it, switch to two chopsticks and loosen the edges.

Bang the handle end of the pan so the back edge jumps up and releases, fold it over itself slightly, then invert onto the plate.

Tidy the shape, rub a little butter over to glaze it, and sprinkle with more chives.

Variation: split the omelette open and fill with sauteed mushrooms in a pan sauce, chicken liver or anything else.