French omelette with chives

Put a little water in a 10-inch non-stick skillet over the heat to gauge its temperature.

Salt the four eggs before beating them.

Back-slice the chives by drawing the knife backward rather than chopping down; add some to the eggs.

When the water has evaporated, the pan is just above 200F; add butter, which should foam immediately without browning.

As soon as the butter is mostly melted, pour in the eggs; shake the pan with one hand and stir vigorously with a fork held just above the pan surface, about a minute, until evenly and softly scrambled with fine curds.

Tilt the pan away, push the eggs into the far corner and fold the thinner side over with the fork.

Bang the pan where the handle meets it so the top edge rides up and folds over; push it down with the fork.

Switch to an underhand grip and flip the omelette onto a plate seam-side down; adjust its shape with the skillet edge or a fork. The outside should be smooth and golden yellow with no browning.

Optionally rub the top with a stick of butter for sheen; finish with more chives and a pinch of kosher salt.