French onion mac and cheese

Melt a couple tablespoons of butter in a pot over medium-high heat; before it browns too much add the sliced yellow onion and coat it in butter.

Give it a couple of minutes on high to start, then turn down slightly so the onions caramelize slowly without burning; stir now and then.

Season with kosher salt and coarse black pepper, and add the leaves of two or three thyme stems.

Caramelize 15 to 20 minutes until deeply coloured with fond on the bottom.

Add the vermouth, turn down slightly, and scrape up the fond.

Add the garlic and cook until fragrant.

Add the beef broth and heavy cream, bring to a quick boil, season with salt and pepper, then turn to medium-low and cook a few minutes to thicken.

Cook the pasta meanwhile, eight or nine minutes, to al dente.

Lift the pasta into the sauce with the spider, keeping the pasta water in case the sauce needs thinning, and mix.

Stir in the smoked Gruyere and aged cheddar off the heat, holding some of each back.

Transfer to a dish, top with crispy French fried onions and the reserved cheese, and broil until melted with a few crispy edges.