French rolled omelette with Gruyere

Crack three eggs on the table and beat vigorously, working in air until a little frothy.

Shred Gruyere.

Preheat an eight inch omelet pan over medium heat 60 to 90 seconds; add one tablespoon of unsalted butter, which should foam rather than sizzle.

Add the eggs and keep them moving at once, shaking the pan and stirring vigorously with wooden chopsticks over medium heat for the smallest curds; stop stirring the moment the eggs are no longer liquid.

Drop the heat to low; tilt the pan away and shake to push the omelette to the far side; roll from the near end halfway with a rubber spatula and loosen underneath.

Tap the tilted pan to prop up the far end, fill with the cheese and fold the far end over the roll, working quickly to avoid browning.

Invert onto a plate, correct the shape, and season lightly with flaky salt, black pepper and chopped chives.

variation: second attempt -- salt the eggs before beating with a tiny whisk, then strain through a fine mesh sieve to remove the chalazae.

variation: cook in a thinner carbon steel pan, which holds less heat and cools faster during rolling, so the outer curd stays thin.

variation: invert onto a warm plate, adjust the shape and smear the whole omelette with butter for flavour, sheen and to hold the toppings.

variation: third attempt with heirloom eggs, same procedure.