French scrambled eggs, two of Julia Child's methods and a combined version

Method one: add 1.5 tsp milk or water to three eggs, season now, and whisk about 30 seconds.

Over moderately low heat, smear about a tablespoon of butter over the base and sides of a non-stick pan and add the eggs.

Stir slowly all over the bottom; for the first two to three minutes nothing seems to happen. Once it resembles a custard, stir rapidly, moving on and off the heat.

Off the heat, stir in three quarters of a tablespoon of butter to stop the cooking and enrich; here it took over 10 minutes on low heat.

Variation, method two: in a smaller pan, reserve two tablespoons of the raw egg, stir the rest slowly scraping sides and bottom until a soft lumpy custard (two to three minutes stated; about six to seven here), then stir in the reserved egg to cream the scramble.

Off the heat, add chives and, if wanted, a little more butter.

Variation, combined: no liquid; hold back two tablespoons of egg, scramble on medium heat, add the rest once a custard forms; about two and a half minutes, then add butter.