Fresh egg pasta dough

Dump the flour onto a clean counter and make a good-sized well with high walls.

Add the eggs to the well, the salt over the eggs and the olive oil.

Beat with a fork, drawing in flour from the walls, until a thick dough forms; then fold it together with a bench scraper.

If too wet, knead in up to a quarter cup more flour a tablespoon at a time; if too dry, knead in a teaspoon of olive oil.

Knead 10 to 15 minutes, folding the dough over and pressing forward, until smooth and it bounces back when poked.

Wrap and rest 1 to 3 hours on the countertop, or refrigerate overnight.

Variation: make a second batch the same way with double zero flour; it kneads silkier and more supple.

Cut the rested dough into four pieces, pat each into a square and flour lightly.

Pass through the roller at setting 1 on low, three times; fold in thirds and pass a couple more times.

Reduce the thickness one number at a time, at least two passes each, with a light sprinkle of flour; support the sheet evenly; stop at 7, or go to 8 for ultra thin.

Flour both sides and cut through the fettuccine attachment.

Variation: roll by hand with a rolling pin on a floured surface (easier with double zero dough), fold over, cut to any width and unfold the noodles.

Twirl portions into nests, freeze on parchment, then store airtight frozen about a month; cook from frozen.

Variation: roll a square of pasta on a gnocchi block with a small rolling pin into a ridged penne-like tube (garganelli).

Boil in a large pot of well-salted water 3 to 5 minutes, depending on thickness, until tender.