Fresh tomato sauce (to replace canned tomatoes)

Rinse the plum tomatoes lightly. Coring or cutting out discolored spots with a paring knife is optional; the stems are removed later by the food mill, so the tomatoes can go in whole.

Add the cherry tomatoes and the crushed half beefsteak tomato, a little fresh basil, a pinch of salt and about a cup of water.

Cover and bring to a simmer, stirring now and then, about 5 minutes.

Turn down to about medium and keep it cooking relatively fast to keep the fresh flavor.

As the tomatoes soften, crush them with the tip of a spatula, which speeds the cooking as slicing would.

Cover with the lid cracked so some water escapes, and simmer, stirring occasionally, another 20 to 25 minutes.

When no part still feels raw under the spatula, uncover, raise the heat to keep the simmer, and cook another 15 to 20 minutes until fully broken down.

Pass through a food mill on its coarsest plate, turning five or six times forward then about three times in reverse to clear the skins.

Can it, freeze it, or reduce it further to a passata consistency. Season with a little salt, not too much in case it is reduced later.