Fried mozzarella puffs

Put the butter, cold water and salt in a pan over medium high heat and as soon as the water simmers and the butter melts, dump in the flour all at once.

Drop to medium and stir with a small spatula until the lumps disappear and it pulls together, then cook stirring two or three minutes, scraping the pan clean.

Transfer to a mixing bowl, spread it out and cool five to ten minutes, from very hot to just very warm.

Season with black pepper and cayenne, add the egg, and whisk until it comes together into a very soft, very sticky dough that collects inside the whisk.

Scrape the whisk and bowl down with a spatula, cover with plastic and refrigerate about an hour.

For the dip, stir dry oregano, red pepper flakes, a splash of balsamic vinegar and one anchovy filet into prepared marinara, bring to a simmer on medium and simmer about 10 minutes, then hold warm.

Grate a large amount of low-moisture mozzarella into the chilled dough and mix it through with a spatula.

Scoop with one spoon and shape with the other, then lower carefully into 350F oil; below that temperature it sticks to the bottom.

Fry about two or three minutes until browned and crispy, with little pieces of mozzarella poking through the surface, four or five at a time but never dropped on top of each other.

Drain a minute on paper towel, garnish with parsley and serve with the warm sauce. A large batch holds in a warm oven.