Frijoles charros

Soak dried pinto beans overnight in lightly salted water.

Simmer the beans with a chunk of salt pork in water to cover by a couple of inches, about a couple of hours, until the pork and beans are cooked through and soft.

Cut the salt pork (or slab bacon) into small pieces and cook over moderate heat in a little oil, rendering its own fat.

Dice the onion and add to the pork; cook over moderate heat until almost completely soft and just starting to caramelize.

Torch the tomatoes (or hold over a burner with tongs, or broil) until the skin puffs, colours and smells smoky; rub the skin off and roughly chop, seeds in.

Press the garlic, skins on, into the pan and toss; add the tomatoes and cook down.

Chop the roasted hatch chilies and add a couple of chilies' worth.

Cook the flavor base until almost dry and sizzling rather than simmering, so it browns a little without going deep brown.

Pour the flavor base into the beans and simmer about 30 minutes more.