From-scratch Amatriciana with fresh semolina spaghetti

Mound the semolina flour on the table, make a wide well and add six ounces of beaten eggs.

Beat the eggs into the flour with a fork, keeping the walls up, then switch to a bench scraper.

Knead five to seven minutes by hand until the dough springs back with enthusiasm when poked.

Wrap in plastic and rest 20 minutes.

If the dough is crumbly, laminate it by folding it over on itself like a pamphlet and re-rolling, no more than three times.

Roll out to spaghetti thickness and pass through the cutter, then coat every strand in extra semolina; refrigerate up to 24 hours.

Cut a shallow X in the bottom of each tomato and drop into boiling water about 15 seconds until the cuts split open.

Plunge into an ice bath so the skins slip but the interiors stay uncooked.

Peel, quarter, seed and rough dice the tomatoes, pressing the seeds and juices through a fine mesh sieve.

Render the thinly sliced guanciale until brown, scoop it out onto paper towels and saute the chopped half onion in the fat about three minutes until softened and coloured.

Add the chopped Calabrian chili and saute about 30 seconds, taking the pan off the heat if needed since guanciale fat smokes easily.

Deglaze with two ounces of white wine and cook off almost entirely.

Add one cup of chopped tomatoes with their juices and six ounces of tomato puree and cook about ten minutes.

Boil the fresh pasta about two minutes to al dente and add it straight to the sauce with pasta water.

Toss minimally so as not to overcook, then finish off heat with a glug of olive oil and the Romano, mixing to emulsify.

Plate and garnish with a big sprig of basil.