Frozen vanilla custard (French vanilla ice cream)

Whisk five egg yolks with a pinch of salt and the sugar for a minute or two, until smoother, paler and a little shiny.

Heat the milk and heavy cream, one part milk to two parts cream, three cups in all, in a heavy saucepan over medium until it just starts to simmer, with small bubbles breaking the surface.

Temper the yolks by whisking in a ladle of the hot mixture, then another, then the rest. Add the vanilla.

Cool over a bowl of ice water, stirring now and then, about 15 minutes. Transfer to a pitcher, cover and refrigerate overnight; it must be ice cold.

Churn in the ice cream maker to soft serve stage, about 20 minutes.

Scrape quickly into a container, press plastic on the surface, cover and freeze at least a few hours until firm; about four hours here.