Gaeng som malakor (Thai sour curry with green papaya)

Seed the dried chilies by cutting them into chunks; add chopped shallots and garlic, a little salt, shrimp paste and the finger root.

Since the paste will not be sauteed, add water and blend it (or pound in a mortar and pestle).

Cook the fish briefly in the stock until done; lift it out and mash it in a mortar and pestle.

Turn the heat back on and dissolve the curry paste straight into the stock; bring to a simmer and return the mashed fish.

Season before the vegetables go in: fish sauce, palm sugar and 3 tablespoons of tamarind; taste and adjust.

At a boil add the papaya and carrots; the papaya takes about 10 minutes. At 8 minutes add the napa cabbage and long beans, which take 2 minutes.

Add the peeled, deveined shrimp; they take 30 seconds at most.

Taste to adjust acidity: finish with lime if needed and a touch more fish sauce.

Serve with rice.