Gaeng som, sour curry Central Plain style

Beat the eggs with the just-picked leaves and cook into an omelette.

Make the paste from soaked dried large red chilies, small chilies, plenty of shallots, garlic and krachai; it should look nice and fine.

Add raw shrimp paste to the paste, tasting as the amount sets the saltiness.

Boil the fish first, then combine some of it with the paste to give the curry texture and flavour.

Mix the paste into the fish stock and add a little of the leaf.

Add the green papaya and the moringa, then the fish.

Peel the local gourd and add it.

Remove the bitter stamens from the hummingbird flowers and add them.

Steep tamarind pulp in water, remove fibres and seeds, strain, and add; keep it thick rather than watery.

Add peeled lotus shoots, shredded Thai morning glory and water mimosa.

Add snake gourds and more stock as needed.

Cut the omelette into pieces and add it so it soaks up the curry; the paste and fish thicken the curry as it cooks.

Season with fish sauce and shrimp paste rather than salt; add more chilli for heat if wanted. Serve with rice.