Gambas al ajillo

Thaw raw easy-peel frozen shrimp in a bowl of water.

Lightly preheat a couple tablespoons of olive oil in a copper pan.

Add smashed whole garlic cloves and the dried chile to the oil to infuse; keep the heat low so it does not go too fast.

Marinate the shrimp with chopped garlic, the good olive oil, a good pinch of salt and about a quarter teaspoon of baking soda per 12 ounces to a pound, for a firmer, juicier, lightly crunchy bite.

Peel the shrimp by pinching the tail and pulling; squeeze excess moisture from the shells and add them to the oil with the garlic and chile, turning the heat up a little.

Slice more garlic relatively thick, about 2 mm, so it browns without burning before the shrimp are done.

When the garlic is golden and the shells ruby red, strain the oil, pressing out as much as possible; keep the chile and return the oil to the pan.

Sizzle the sliced garlic in a single layer until very pale golden brown.

Add the shrimp at moderate heat, not searing but almost gently poaching them in the garlic oil, tossing a few times.

Add the dry sherry, parsley and bay leaf; taste, add a little more salt and a drizzle of the good olive oil, and finish with grated lemon zest.