Garlic naan baked on oven grates under the broiler

Combine flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, dry yeast, yogurt, oil and 200 ml milk or water.

Mix with a spoon, adding just enough milk to bring it together; knead by hand until reasonably smooth and elastic and just barely sticky, adding flour if too wet.

Cover with a wet towel and let rise until twice as big, at least an hour, probably two.

Peel and chop garlic, chop cilantro, and melt a little butter.

Variation: a no-yeast dough with a lot of live-culture yogurt instead of yeast, left to rise overnight; better texture, less flavour.

Punch the dough down, divide into four, knead a little and shape into balls; cover and rest at least 15 minutes.

Put a baking sheet or foil on the bottom oven rack to catch drips and turn on the broiler.

Roll each ball almost as thin as possible, flouring if it sticks; smear on garlic and cilantro and roll them hard into the surface.

Lay the breads topping side down directly on the top oven grates under the broiler, close the door and bake about two minutes, tamping any giant bubbles with tongs.

Bake until the first side is golden, then flip and bake the top side a minute at most, until it has some brown bubbles but is mostly doughy.

Brush with melted butter; salt on top if the butter is unsalted.

Alternative transfer: flip the topped dough upside down, roll it around the rolling pin and unroll it onto the grates topping side down; useful for one giant loaf.

If loaves start sticking, scrape the grates with an outdoor grill scraper and grease them with an oily paper towel.