German potato dumplings (Kartoffelkloesse)

Simmer the potatoes whole in their skins in salted water until just tender by a knife; lift out with a strainer.

Melt a stick of butter over medium heat in a skillet; before it browns, add a couple handfuls of cubed bread and cook, stirring, a few minutes until golden brown and very crispy. Lift out with a slotted spoon and keep the browned butter.

Keep some bread cubes whole for the centers and chop the rest for a crispy topping.

Peel the potatoes while warm and mash them (or use a ricer).

Season the warm potatoes with kosher salt, black pepper, cayenne and nutmeg; mash in two eggs.

Add all-purpose flour and mix with a wooden spoon just until it disappears; overworking can make the dumplings rubbery.

Bring well salted water to a simmer. With wet hands, roll a generous scoop into a ball, make an indentation, add two or three crispy bread cubes, close and roll smooth.

Lower each into the simmering water on a large spoon; once they float after a minute or two, cover, reduce to medium-low and simmer gently 20 minutes, not at a rolling boil, flipping them about halfway.

Cover again and give them another 10 minutes or so.

Lift onto a serving dish with a slotted spoon, spoon over the brown butter and plenty of chopped crispy crumbs, and finish with snipped chives. Letting them sit about 10 minutes firms the texture.