Ghugni (curried dried yellow peas with potato)

Soak about 1 cup dried yellow peas in plenty of water with about 1 tbsp salt for 8 hours or overnight.

Drain all the soaking water before cooking, or the curry will be horribly salty; rinse once more in fresh water.

In a pressure cooker put the peas and one large peeled potato, about 3 cups hot water, a little turmeric and about 1/2 tsp salt.

Blend 2 ripe tomatoes, 2 cloves garlic, a knob of ginger and a green chilli to a smooth puree.

In a pan over very low heat, stir cumin seeds, coriander seeds, a seeded dry red chilli, a cinnamon stick, green cardamoms and cloves constantly until fragrant and a shade darker; do not roast long or they turn bitter. Pour into a bowl to cool.

Grind the cooled spices coarsely in a spice or coffee grinder or mortar and pestle.

For the spice paste, mix turmeric, ground coriander and Kashmiri red chilli powder (or paprika) with about 5 tbsp water.

Pressure cook the peas 20 minutes and let the pressure release naturally; cut the potato into bite-size pieces.

Heat oil in a pot on medium-high until shimmering; add finely chopped onions and a sprinkle of salt and stir until they soften considerably and are golden at the edges; they need not brown.

Add the spice paste, rinsing out the bowl, and stir 1 minute on medium-low heat.

Add the tomato puree, rinsing out the blender; stir frequently on medium-high for a few minutes until it looks dry.

Add the potato and the peas. Add salt, remembering the peas were salted; taste and adjust with more salt and sugar. Add more water for a soupier curry.

Bring to a boil, then cover on medium heat 3 to 4 minutes.

Stir in the ground spice blend and coriander leaves. Serve with roti, puris, toasted bread or rice, topped with chopped onions and a dash of lemon or lime juice.