Giant shoyu ramen bowl

Put a whole chicken in a pot, cover with water and bring to a boil.

Trim the flaps and bumps off a skinless slab of pork belly, saving the scraps, and roll the belly tight with butcher's twine.

Drop the rolled belly into a pot with one cup soy sauce, one cup sake, two cups water, three inches ginger, three cloves garlic and two chopped scallions.

Double the soy sauce and sake to cover the pork and add a third cup granulated sugar to balance the sweetness.

Simmer the pork two hours, flipping every 15 to 20 minutes so all sides coat evenly.

Add two and a half pounds of chicken feet and the skins of about eight chicken thighs to the simmering chicken.

Hold the soup on low-medium heat for at least six hours, up to 12.

Brown and sear the reserved pork trimmings in a small pan until the fat gives them a golden colour, then add a handful of sugar to start a caramel.

When the sugar is on the verge of burning, deglaze with half a cup soy sauce and half a cup sake, then add a quarter cup sugar to glaze the meat.

For the aroma oil, thinly chop the green and white parts of three scallions, dice two shallots small, chop a three-inch knob of ginger and crush and chop four garlic cloves.

Put the aromatics into 125 millilitres of vegetable oil and bring the heat up from very low to medium-low until the moisture has evaporated and everything has browned.

Strain the aroma oil into a bowl, keeping the oil and the crispy bits separately.

For the tare, use a jar of 300 millilitres shoyu and 32.5 millilitres mirin that has sat a week.

Add a sheet of kombu and about two dried shiitake to the tare jar and let it sit overnight.

For the dashi, combine 2.5 litres water with 25 grams kombu and 12.5 grams dried shiitake and hydrate overnight.

Soft boil eight to 12 eggs for six and a half minutes and move them straight to an ice bath.

Pour the dashi into a pot and bring it to 140F, checking with a temperature gun; remove the kombu and shiitake at 140F.

Bring the dashi to 194F, add 32.5 grams katsuobushi, steep about five minutes and strain.

Heat the shoyu mixture to 175F, remove the kombu and shiitake, turn off the heat and stir in five grams sea salt and 10 millilitres Thai fish sauce.

Skim the fat and scum from the surface of the rested chicken soup, saving some of the fat.

Ladle the soup cup by cup into a strainer rather than tipping the pot, to keep it clear.

Peel the eggs in water so no shell or skin sticks.

Leave the chashu in its braising marinade overnight, then slice it cold so the cross-sections stay together.

Heat the strained soup and add a quarter head of Napa cabbage cut in squares, half a head of garlic cut in half and about 25 grams of peeled sliced ginger.

Cook the vegetables in the soup about 15 minutes at 200F and strain again.

Halve the eggs. Spread the chashu in a single layer on a baking sheet and sear each side with a blowtorch.

Ladle boiling water into the serving bowl to heat it, then tip it out.

Cook the fresh ramen noodles about one minute per batch.

Pour the tare into the bowl first, then the chicken soup.

Add the noodles batch by batch and fold them with chopsticks into a raft for the toppings.

Top in quadrants: the halved eggs, pan-seared enoki mushrooms, the crispy aromatic bits from the oil, the torched chashu slices, and scallion greens to close the gap.