Golden chicken (braised chicken legs with saffron and turmeric)

Skin side up, cut once into the thickest part of each drumstick down to the bone and twice about an inch apart across the thigh.

Season very generously on both sides with kosher salt, at least a couple of teaspoons.

Sear skin side down in a little olive oil over high heat at least five or six minutes, until browned and the fat renders; flip and give the other side about two minutes. Remove to a plate.

Over medium heat in the oil and chicken fat, cook the onion, celery and jalapeno with a big pinch of salt, stirring, until the onions are translucent and the vegetables soften.

Measure the spice blend: cumin, smoked paprika, coriander, turmeric, black pepper, cayenne, cinnamon.

Add the spices and crushed garlic and cook on medium about two minutes to toast the spices.

Add the tomato paste, the vinegar and the cold water; crumble in the saffron; raise to high and bring back to a simmer, adding the currants and chicken bouillon base.

Return the chicken skin side up, reduce to low, baste with a spoon, cover and simmer gently exactly one hour.

Flip skin side down, cover and simmer gently another 30 minutes.

Flip skin side up, baste, raise to medium and cook uncovered about 30 minutes, basting occasionally, until very tender and the liquid has reduced into a sauce; skim off about half the fat.

Taste and adjust the seasoning; check that a fork goes in with almost no effort.

Serve over Yukon gold mashed potatoes with plenty of braising liquid; top with finely diced jalapeno and green onion.