Gomaae (Japanese spinach salad with sesame dressing)

Bring a large pot of water to a boil.

Toast the sesame seeds in an ungreased frying pan over medium-high heat, lifting and shaking the pan constantly, until fragrant.

Transfer to a ceramic mortar and grind with a wooden pestle, leaving some seeds whole; add 1 tbsp sugar and 1 tbsp soy sauce, mix and set aside.

Add 1 tsp salt to the boiling water; hold the spinach stem ends down in the water for 15 seconds, then push the leaves under and blanch 30 to 45 seconds until no longer rigid.

Plunge into iced water to stop the cooking, squeeze out the water and cut into 1-inch lengths.

Combine the spinach with the sesame dressing; serve at room temperature or chilled.