Grandma's Thai garlic shrimp stir-fry

Pound lots of garlic into big chunks, or smash with the side of a knife and roughly chop; remove large green sprouts, which can taste bitter.

Take out most of the garlic, leaving about one clove's worth; add white peppercorns and chopped cilantro stems and pound to a fine paste (sam klu).

Mix the sauce: oyster sauce, fish sauce, sugar, water and shrimp paste in oil.

Dry the shrimp well, especially the tails, to prevent oil splattering.

In a wok over high heat, add just enough oil to coat the bottom; when very hot, lay the shrimp in one layer, in two batches.

Sear until at least halfway cooked and browned underneath, flip and cook just until done; remove, leaving the oil behind, and repeat.

In the same unwashed wok on low heat, add a little more oil and saute the chunky garlic slowly until soft and starting to turn golden.

Add the herb paste for about 15 seconds ('not even 30 seconds like 15 seconds').

Add the shrimp with their juices, reheat if cold, then add the sauce over slightly higher heat and reduce a little; add a splash of water if too dry, cook longer if too wet.

Optionally garnish with cilantro; serve with rice and a vegetable side.