Grilled and steam-braised fennel with wine, lemon and coriander seeds

Trim a little off the root end, cut off the stalks and remove the brown, fibrous outer leaf carefully so the bulb does not fall apart; remove a second leaf only if the first is badly marked.

Cut the bulb in half (or quarters); for a salad slice it thinly. Keep halves for this recipe.

Blanch the fennel in salted boiling water for three minutes, as fennel for anything but a salad should always be blanched; drain in a sieve without rinsing.

Optional, for looks: mark the fennel very lightly on an oiled grill.

Over medium heat combine the wine, water, coriander seeds, bay leaf, a little thyme and a few grinds of salt and pepper; bring to a simmer.

Place the fennel pieces in, drizzle with olive oil, cover and cook in the steam 35 to 40 minutes until a knife goes through easily.

Plate, decorate with fennel fronds, baste with the cooking juices, drizzle with lemon and finish with salt and pepper. Serve with grilled fish or lamb.