Grilled black-pepper catfish tacos with roasted habanero mayo

Grill-roast the habaneros directly on the grill, turning, 4 or 5 minutes until blackened and blistered; roast a head of garlic in its husk the same way, cool and peel.

Process the garlic and habaneros in a small food processor with the salt and apple cider vinegar to a coarse puree with small chunks.

Store the puree in a small jar in the refrigerator; preserved by the vinegar and salt, it keeps several months.

Salt the catfish and cover the top with pepper cracked coarsely in a molcajete by crushing and twisting, not pounding.

Spray olive oil evenly over the top.

Grill the catfish peppered side down on a hot grill, about three minutes per side.

Season a cup of mayonnaise with habanero puree to taste and stir in chopped cilantro, tossed so the stems fall away.

Cut lime wedges.

Cut up the catfish to build the tacos; top with a dollop of habanero mayo, cilantro leaves, grated lime zest and a squeeze of lime.