Grilled lemongrass chicken with nuoc cham

In a mortar, pound garlic and black peppercorns to a fine paste.

Add thinly sliced lemongrass (bottom half) and pound to bruise it until paste-ish and strongly fragrant.

Add oil, fish sauce, soy sauce and sugar; swirl until the sugar dissolves. Add a little water.

Mix the marinade into boneless skinless chicken thighs; marinate a couple of hours, or the day before.

Grill on a well-oiled grill, starting on high for grill marks and turning down for larger pieces; cook dark meat to an internal 175F, checking the smallest pieces first.

Nuoc cham: pound garlic and one Thai chili with sugar; add fish sauce, lime juice and quite a bit of water to thin it. Optionally add shredded carrot.

Slice the chicken, serve over rice with the sauce over the chicken and greens on the side.