Grilled miso-glazed eggplant

Split the Japanese eggplants in half lengthwise.

Score the cut faces every half to three-quarter inch, about a quarter inch deep, so heat and sauce penetrate evenly.

Season with a little salt and MSG to start drawing out liquid; let sit about 10 minutes.

Mash about a quarter cup of miso with a tablespoon of sake, a tablespoon of mirin and about two teaspoons of sugar into a smooth paste.

Loosen with a splash more mirin to the texture of smooth hummus that slowly flows but holds its shape; taste and add a little more sugar.

Blot the liquid off the eggplants and rub both sides with a little oil.

Preheat the gas grill on high and clean the grates with crumpled aluminum foil.

Over medium-high heat, grill the eggplants cut side down on the hotter back of the grill with the lid closed, about five to seven minutes, rotating after a couple of minutes for grill marks.

Flip and grill the second side; move charred pieces to a side turned to low until totally creamy and soft through.

Transfer to a tray and spread the miso glaze over the cut surfaces.

Variation: indoors, broil the eggplant (or fry it) and finish the glaze under the broiler for caramelization and colour.

Set the tray on the cool side, one side of the grill on high and the other on low, close the lid and cook by indirect heat until the miso bubbles and chars, about 10 minutes.

Plate and garnish with sesame seeds and chopped scallions.