Grilled pizza over a two-zone charcoal fire

Bulk ferment the same-day dough at room temperature about 4 hours, divide into three balls, and rest another 2 hours at room temperature.

Roll each ball out oblong with a rolling pin, with no raised outer lip.

Precook any topping that needs cooking, since a grill gives no heat from above.

Light a chimney starter full of charcoal and spread it over one half of the grill grate, leaving the other half empty, for a two-zone fire.

Crush garlic in a mortar and pestle with a pinch of salt and add olive oil to make garlic oil.

Brush one side of the dough with garlic oil and sprinkle with a little salt.

Lay the dough oiled side down over the coals; it cooks fast, so avoid flames, which make it sooty, and spin it with tongs as needed.

Brush the top side with garlic oil while the first side grills; grill until charred and browned fairly evenly all over, rotating for a crosshatch if wanted.

Grill both sides, then top the crust and move it to the cooler side under the lid to melt the toppings.

Spread cheese along the bottom and swirl the San Marzano sauce on top, New Jersey tomato pie style; keep every topping light.

Restaurant method: top directly over the fire with shredded mozzarella, grilled corn, sliced serrano chilies, cherry tomatoes and dollops of pesto.

Top another with scallions and basil.

Top the last directly on the grill with morels and caramelized onions sauteed in olive oil, thyme and butter.

Party-cut: once down the middle each way and into strips, leaving the edges uncut.