Guacamole verde with roasted tomatillo salsa

Remove the papery husks from the tomatillos and rinse off what sticks.

Put the tomatillos and the serrano chili on a rimmed baking sheet under the broiler about six or seven minutes until blotchy black; turn and roast the other side.

Put everything in a blender jar, scraping in all the juices with a spatula, and blend to a coarse puree with a little texture left.

Check the avocados are soft at the bulbous end; remove any stem buttons. Cut around the pit from the stem end, twist apart, and remove the pit with a spoon or by lodging the knife in it and twisting.

Scoop the flesh into the bowl with a large spoon and mash with a potato masher to a chunky texture.

Scrape in the tomatillo mixture to taste, starting with about two thirds if preferred (all of it here); add salt and stir.

Chop white onion fairly fine, rinse it in a strainer for crisper texture and milder flavor, and add about half of it.

Add cilantro sprigs, stems included, and stir.

Taste for the serrano's spice, the tomatillo's tang and the avocado's richness; add more salt if subdued.

Serve with chips, sliced cucumbers and jicama, with queso anejo sprinkled over.