Guizhou crunchy pork cracklins (cui shao)

Slice the pork into thick 2 cm slices and cut each slice into thirds; freezing a couple of hours first helps keep the belly intact.

Put the pork in the pan with a pint of cool water, bring to a rapid boil, then drop to medium or medium-high to render out some lard before frying.

When the water has almost boiled off, optionally add a few tablespoons of lard; move the pork gently, like tofu, until enough lard renders to deep fry in.

Fry on low, checking now and then that nothing sticks, until lightly golden brown, about 20 minutes.

Dip out most of the rendered lard, add another pint of water and boil it down again to render more fat and soften the lean.

Return the scooped-out lard and render over low heat about 45 minutes, until deeper brown and most of the foam has subsided.

Dip out most of the oil, leaving a shallow-frying quantity; save the lard for stir frying.

Mix the fermented rice, its liquid and the rice vinegar, breaking up the rice; add to the pork over medium heat and stir constantly about 5 minutes until it caramelizes reddish-brown.

Add the light and dark soy sauce and fry one more minute.

Drain in a fine mesh strainer, then toss continuously in a colander about 5 minutes to cool and shed the scraggly bits.

Pat on a paper-towel-lined tray and season with the salt and white pepper powder.