Hainanese chicken rice

Trim the one or two pieces of fat from the end of the cavity, dice them finely and reserve for the rice.

Rub the chicken inside and out with the sea salt to strip impurities and smell, then rinse thoroughly under running water.

Tie the legs with kitchen twine, leaving a length long enough to lift the bird by.

Bring 5 litres of water to a simmer, not a boil, so only tiny bubbles show.

On medium heat, lower the chicken in and move it around 15 seconds, lift it out and wait 30 seconds; repeat three times to firm the skin to a stretchy gelatin texture.

Move the chicken to a clay pot barely bigger than the bird with 2.5 litres of water, so the broth comes out concentrated.

Add the knotted scallions and the sliced ginger.

Poach on the lowest heat 50 to 60 minutes at 185F, with no bubbling at all, checking every 15 minutes because stoves differ.

Check the thickest part with a thermometer; it must be above 165F.

Shock the chicken in an ice bath 15 minutes to stop the cooking; it should come out slightly warm.

Brush the chicken with sesame oil mixed with a little turmeric powder.

Rinse the jasmine rice under running water, rubbing to remove excess starch, and drain completely.

Render the reserved chicken fat over medium heat until golden, making up any shortfall with vegetable oil.

Fry the diced shallot, minced garlic and minced ginger a few minutes until golden at the edges, then add the rice and stir a couple of minutes.

Add 2.5 cups of the chicken broth and half a teaspoon of salt, bring to a simmer, lid on, and cook on low 15 minutes; fluff.

For the chili sauce, blend the garlic, ginger, red chili and bird eye chilies with the fish sauce, lime juice, chicken broth and sugar until smooth; if pounding in a mortar and pestle instead, season after pounding.

For the scallion ginger sauce, combine the diced scallion, grated ginger and salt, heat vegetable oil until smoking hot and pour it over.

For the sweet soy sauce, stir the soy sauce, dark soy sauce and shaved palm sugar over low heat until the sugar dissolves, then drizzle in sesame oil and mix.

For the soup, bring the remaining broth back to a boil, add carrot slices, cabbage and salt, and cook one minute.

Remove the twine, detach the legs and chop them into big chunks; cut off the wings and separate flat from drumstick.

Lay cucumber slices on the plate under the chicken; finish the soup with cilantro.

Cut deep just off centre to miss the middle bone and peel the breast off the carcass whole, then cut into thick slices.