Ham and vegetable egg rolls

Cut a flat side on the carrot section, slice about eighth-inch planks, then stack two or three and cut eighth-inch matchsticks.

Core the half cabbage with angled cuts, lay it flat side down and slice thinly (thicker for more bite), then cut the strands in half.

Cross-cut the green onions and thinly slice the mushroom caps.

Sizzle the minced garlic and ginger in a little oil over medium-high heat about 30 seconds without browning.

Add the sliced vegetables and a big pinch of salt, toss with tongs and cook 1 to 2 minutes until they soften and slump.

Add the sesame oil and oyster sauce and stir thoroughly; reduce the heat to medium-low.

Add the uncooked rice vermicelli and work it into the hot wet vegetables with tongs until the noodles loosen and separate; they soak up the juices and the excess moisture that causes bad egg rolls.

Off the heat, transfer to a bowl and add the green peas, the ham in quarter-inch pieces, cayenne and black pepper; mix thoroughly.

Optionally cover and refrigerate a few hours so the flavours mingle and the vermicelli soaks up more moisture.

Keep the wrappers under a damp paper towel. Set one as a diamond and brush about an inch around the edge with egg wash.

Put one-third cup of filling on the bottom third, fold the bottom point over, give it a roll, fold in the sides straight or angled slightly inward, and roll up so the point ends underneath.

Optionally refrigerate the rolls, up to the night before. Shallow fry seam side down in about an inch of 350 degree oil about 4 to 5 minutes, flipping every minute so they brown evenly without dark spots.

Drain on a paper towel lined plate and cool a couple of minutes. Serve with a hot and sweet mustard sauce or another dipping sauce.